WECOME BACK TO NEW ZEALAND!
After 22 hours in flight, I landed in Christchurch at 11am on a very warm (82F!) and windy day. I didn't really sleep at all on the trans-pacific flight, so I was pretty exhausted. Unable to check into my airport hotel for a few hours, I decided to take a walk, and get some sunlight, in my attempt to stay awake and kick start the transition to Kiwi time.
The International Antarctic Program is housed in a fairly large building, a few blocks from the Christchurch International Airport. Anchored by the United States, the building contains the Korean, Italian, New Zealand and Japanese programs. Across the street, located on the grounds of the international airport, are the hangers for the US, Italian and New Zealand Air Force; the Americans with the largest presence. The picture above is taken 3 hours after I got off the plane, dead tired, and across the street from the American Hangar.
The primary role of the headquarters is administrative and logistical - here is where we receive several briefings, and most importantly, all our extreme cold weather gear (ECW). And there's a LOT of that!! It's also the first place you meet all of your fellow deployment mates. And yes, I'm the oldest by far. Most are in their 20's and 30's - namely scientists, Phd candidates, a handful of construction and logistical workers, and two cooks. 32 of us in total. Only three were returning "poleys," as we're sarcastically referred to. We were all COVID tested as there is an attempt to keep the Pole 100% COVID free. If someone turns positive on the Ice, isolating them is challenging as rooms and berthing are at a premium. At McMurdo, it's not uncommon for folks to sleep in bunk rooms with 6-8 other roommates. McMurdo berthing is leftover from the days the Navy operated McMurdo. At the South Pole, we have it a bit better. Namely, each person has their own room - albeit, small at 10x6 feet. Communal living area, and bathrooms.
The ECW you are issued is dependent on your job/position on the Ice. When I checked in, I was greeted by "Oh, You're the doctor. You don't get much." I thought, "...a blessing, or curse?" That was followed by, "Ah yeah mate. Desk jobbies don't get a dear amount." ("dear" is a Kiwi/Ozzie slang term for a lot, or great deal of cost). In a large room, with only a few wooden benches, and one fan blowing warm air around (remember, it was a warm 82 degrees outside), we all stripped down and started the process of fitting ourselves into multiple layers of polyester fleece, Carhart bib-overalls, balaclavas (facial coverings), more fleece, googles, the infamous Red NSF parka, and finally triple insulated "bunny boots." Bunny boots, are specially designed, triple-iar-layered insulated boots made for the polar region. On the side of the boot is a valve that you have to fully open for the flight down to the ice. If you don't, the air expands in the boot expands, crushing your feet! All that is issued you - well, expect for the desk-bound physician. I got one layer of old fleece, an old parka with splattered paint on it, no goggles as their stock was low, and a balaclava that was made for someone with a head 3x the size of mine. I guess they were thinking since I was the physician, I would have this tremendously large skull occupied by an intelligent brain filled with all kinds of medical knowledge. I had to exchange the fleece top - didn't fit my shoulders and chest. Had to exchange the pants - they were way too big in the waist. And the balaclava - well, thank god I brought my own! As for the boots.....two pairs of socks made the size adjustment better. The goggles will come at some point in the future, I was told.
I feel instantly comfortable in this incredible country! First off, you haven't experience life until you have warm Earl Grey tea mixed with New Zealand full cream. Not for those of you that count calories! Christchurch (CHC) is the second largest city in New Zealand. It's known as the Garden City, because of its expansive Botanical Gardens, and multiple parks within the city limits. As in all of New Zealand, the southern kiwi's pride themselves in living an active, outdoor life with fresh air. It's the beginning of spring here. Flowers are blooming, and the trees are sprouting iridescent green foliage. At 45 degrees south latitude, CHC is similar in weather to Salem. It lies halfway between the equator and the South Pole. (Yes, I still have another 8 hour flight ahead of me, south to McMurdo. And trust me, the seats on a C-131 are not comfortable!)
Located next door to the gardens is Christ College. It's a private all boys college, founded in 1851. The emphasis was on a classical education, including Greek and Latin, as well as Modern Languages, Mathematics, English, History and Geography. Boys were also expected to be able to conduct scientific experiments, draw and sing. Music education is a large part of the curriculum today. I was told by kiwi friends to stumble into the college's courtyard and keep an ear open for spontaneous music being played. Here's what I stumbled upon. I found a bench to lay down on, with a cool breeze and rustling leaves overhead. Enjoy! (I'm hoping the video works....)
Many of you know that a few years ago, I lived in Tauranga, New Zealand, and worked at the hospital there. It's a training facility and Level 2 Trauma Center. However, the real medical education in New Zealand goes on at two major medical centers: Auckland City Hospital (the largest and most comprehensive facility in the country) and Christchurch Hospital, here in Canterbury Region. Importantly, CHC Hospital is the receiving facility for any emergent medevacs from the pole - albeit a mere 1,605 miles in distance!
When I was working in Tauranga, I had the pleasure of being introduced to a few emergency consultants (board certified attending physician level) from the Christchurch facility and training program. So of course, a visit, and chat over a flat white coffee was in order! Our 6 hours chat among friends, finished with one of the most outstanding ethnic meals I've ever had. Sri Lankan food is something that hadn't teased my palate too much - in fact, ever! One of my Kiwi colleagues basically left it up to the chef. What a treat! Served family style, the meal was varied, full of vegetables, and topped with a New Zealand lamb shank that was to die for!
Your "Ice Flight" is all dependent on weather....and of course, a working aircraft! Well, I've been in Christchurch for several days now, with delay after delay; maintenance issue waiting for parts from the US, and a pilot that tested positive for COVID. I'm manifested for tomorrow morning's flight - however, it's on the C-130. Let's just say, torture! So, in preparation for my 8 hours journey, I now present the infamous US Air Force C-130 Hercules aircraft for your pleasure!
Now, not as glamorous as the pictured below C-17 Globemaster (Hercules vs Globemaster? I'll let you choose the winner!), the C-130 is highly maneuverable, and is touted as one of the most important aircraft in aviation history. Developed, and manufactured by Lockheed Martin, the first C-130 took flight on Aug 23, 1954, from LH's facility in Burbank, CA. One of its most notable features is its ability to take off and land in a mere 800- feet of runway! Given its initial success, the entire C-130 program was then moved to LH's facility in Georgia. Driven by 4 turbo-prop engines, each delivering 3,750 horsepower, the Curtiss-Wright propellers are electrically driven and reversible - allowing the C-130 to come to a complete stop on a short runway. Improvements over the past 6 decades have kept the Hercules state-of-the-art, and still, the US military's most versatile medium-range aircraft.
This year, the NSF has welcomed a special C-130 carrying hardware that is specially made for the Pole. Here's the story:
On Oct. 28, 2023, NASA’s C-130 Hercules and crew safely touched down at McMurdo Station, Antarctica, after an around-the-globe journey to deliver the agency’s Galactic/Extragalactic ULDB Spectroscopic Terahertz Observatory (GUSTO). The United States research station, operated by the National Science Foundation, is host to NASA’s Antarctic long-duration balloon campaign in which the GUSTO mission will take a scientific balloon flight beginning December 2023.
The C-130 crew, which has now completed half of the 26,400-nautical-mile round-trip journey, first stopped at Fort Cavazos, Texas, on Oct. 17, to load the GUSTO observatory and members of its instrument team. Additional stops to service the aircraft and for crew rest included Travis Air Force Base (AFB), California; Hickman AFB, Hawaii; Pago Pago, American Samoa; and Christchurch, New Zealand, before finally reaching McMurdo, Antarctica – a mere 800 miles from the South Pole.
Well, just got notified indeed, I'm out of here in the morning! Here's the invite:
So, I'll bid farewell for now gang - next stop, McMurdo Station where I'll quarantine for 2-3 days and then fly to the pole if the weather allows!
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